How a Suit Should Fit: The Bespoke Clothing Guide

Sep 24, 2024

Knowing how a suit should fit is crucial if you want to look polished and confident. Whether you're tall, short, broad, or slim, the fundamental principles of suit fitting remain the same.

Achieving the right fit not only elevates your style but also ensures comfort and freedom of movement. In this guide, we'll break down the key elements of how a suit should fit from head to toe, using insights from different body types to help you find the perfect look.

Be sure to watch the video as well, as we’ll reference these two real world examples of different body types to further demonstrate how a suit should fit, and how we ensure that every client leaves with confidence after a fitting appointment with us.

How a Suit Jacket Should Fit

how a suit collar should fit

1. Collar Fit: The Foundation of a Great Suit

The collar is one of the first areas to check when determining how a suit should fit. A well-fitted collar should sit snugly against the back of your neck without any gaps or excess fabric, known as a collar roll. For example, in the video, Ikani (who has a shorter, broader build) has a bit of excess fabric at the collar, creating a collar roll. On the other hand, Connor (with a taller, slender frame) experiences a collar gap. Both of these issues are common in off-the-rack suits and should be addressed through tailoring to achieve a smooth, flush collar.


2. Shoulder Fit: The Perfect Transition

A well-fitted suit starts with the shoulders. The shoulder seam should align perfectly with the end of your natural shoulder, creating a clean line. In Ikani's case, his shoulders show a slight divot, meaning his deltoids push out the sleeve, disrupting the clean line. Connor’s suit, however, has a smooth transition down the shoulder. If your shoulders don’t fit properly, the suit will never look right, no matter what alterations you make to other areas.


3. Chest and Lapel Fit: Smooth and Flush

When considering how a suit should fit in the chest area, it’s important to focus on the lapels. The lapels should lay flat against your chest without flaring out or creating gaps. In the video, Connor demonstrates what happens when the chest area is too small—his lapels start to gap away from his chest when he pushes his shoulders back, creating an unpolished look. A good chest fit ensures the lapels sit snugly against your body, enhancing the overall silhouette of the suit.


how a suit chest should fit

4. Armhole Fit: Ensuring Mobility

The armhole is an often-overlooked aspect of how a suit should fit. A higher armhole allows for better mobility, while a lower armhole can restrict movement. In the video, Ikani’s suit features a higher armhole, giving him more freedom of movement when he raises his arms. On the other hand, Connor’s suit has a lower armhole, causing the fabric to pull when he lifts his arms. This difference highlights the importance of armhole height in achieving both comfort and style. A raised armhole is ideal for a modern, fitted suit, as it allows for better mobility without sacrificing aesthetics.


5. Waist Fit: Comfort and Balance

The waist of the jacket is another critical point in knowing how a suit should fit. A well-fitted jacket will taper slightly at the waist, creating a balanced silhouette. Ideally, you should be able to fit three fingers inside the front of your jacket when it’s buttoned—this is a middle-of-the-road fit that works for most people. Ikani’s jacket, for instance, fits snugly but with a bit of excess fabric in the back, while Connor’s jacket sits a little loose at the waist. Both of these issues can be fixed by a tailor, ensuring the jacket drapes evenly from front to back.


6. Sleeve Fit and Length: The Finishing Touch

How suit sleeves should fit

Sleeve length is a detail that can make or break how a suit should fit. The general rule is to show about a quarter to half an inch of your shirt cuff below the jacket sleeve. In the video, Connor’s jacket sleeves are too short, showing too much cuff, while Ikani’s sleeves are too long, covering his hands almost to the knuckles. Proper sleeve length should be judged when your arms are relaxed at your sides—this gives you the most accurate indication of fit.


7. Jacket Length: Striking the Right Balance

The overall length of the jacket is just as important as the fit of the collar or shoulders. Ideally, the jacket should cover the base of your crotch for a balanced look. Too long or too short can disrupt the suit’s proportions. Both Ikani and Connor’s jackets are slightly too long, as demonstrated in the video. If you prefer a more traditional fit, a longer jacket may suit your taste, while a modern, slim fit often calls for a shorter length. Regardless of your style preference, a properly balanced jacket length is essential for a well-fitted suit.


How Dress Pants Should Fit

1. Pant Fit: Waist, Seat, and Crotch

how dress pants should fit

Pants are often the trickiest part of a suit to get right, but understanding how a suit should fit includes nailing the pant fit. The waist should sit comfortably without being too tight or too loose. In the video, Connor’s pants are slightly loose at the waist, while Ikani’s are more fitted. Both can be adjusted for a better fit.

The seat—the area around your hips and rear—should lay flat without pulling or gaping. Ikani’s pants show some tension in the seat, causing his pockets to gape, while Connor’s fit more comfortably. These are common issues with off-the-rack pants but can be fixed with tailoring.


2. Pant Taper and Length: A Matter of Preference

dress pant breaks

The taper of your pants from the thigh to the ankle can vary based on personal style. Whether you prefer a slim fit or a more relaxed cut, the key is to ensure the pants fall smoothly down your leg. The length of your pants is typically described by the “break”—the amount of fabric that rests on top of your shoes. Connor’s pants demonstrate a half-break, which is a good middle ground for most men, while Ikani’s pants show a full break, with excess fabric bunching at the shoes. Ideally, for a modern look, aim for a quarter or half-break, but ultimately, the choice is a matter of preference.


Conclusion: Tailor Your Suit for the Perfect Fit
Achieving the perfect suit fit involves paying attention to every detail—from the collar and shoulders to the waist, sleeves, and pants. Because of how difficult altering some of these areas can be, we hope this helps underscore the value of going custom. Understanding how a suit should fit ensures that you not only look sharp but feel comfortable and confident in your outfit.

Whether you’re buying your first suit or looking to improve the fit of your current wardrobe, following these guidelines will help you make informed decisions. Remember, the fit is everything when it comes to looking your best in a suit, and our team of specialists is more than happy to help no matter how many suits you own. After all, a well-fitted suit is an investment in both style and self-assurance.

By following this guide, you’ll understand how a suit should fit for every part of your body, ensuring that your next suit purchase is a perfect one.

How a Suit Should Fit: The Bespoke Clothing Guide

How a Suit Should Fit: The Bespoke Clothing Guide

24 Sep, 2024
Knowing how a suit should fit is crucial if you want to look polished and confident. Whether you're tall, short, broad, or slim, the fundamental principles of suit fitting remain the same. Achieving the right fit not only elevates your style but also ensures comfort and freedom of movement. In this guide, we'll break down the key elements of how a suit should fit from head to toe, using insights from different body types to help you find the perfect look. Be sure to watch the video as well, as we’ll reference these two real world examples of different body types to further demonstrate how a suit should fit, and how we ensure that every client leaves with confidence after a fitting appointment with us .
Why a Suit Will Boost Your Confidence

Why a Suit Will Boost Your Confidence

03 May, 2023
Wearing a suit can have a significant impact on how you feel and present yourself to the world. A suit can make you look and feel more confident, competent, and professional. Here are a few reasons why a suit can boost your confidence: A suit commands respect When you wear a suit, you immediately look more put together and serious. It conveys a sense of authority and professionalism, which can help you gain respect from others. Whether you're going to a job interview or giving a presentation, a suit can help you project a powerful and confident image. A suit makes you feel more polished When you put on a suit, you instantly feel more polished and sophisticated. A suit is a timeless and classic garment that never goes out of style. The clean lines and tailored fit make you look sharp and well-groomed. This can help boost your self-esteem and make you feel more comfortable in social situations. A suit can improve your posture When you wear a suit, you're more likely to stand up straight and maintain good posture. This not only makes you look more confident, but it also helps you feel more confident. Good posture can improve your breathing, increase your energy levels, and even reduce stress and anxiety. A suit can help you focus When you wear a suit, you're more likely to adopt a professional mindset. This can help you focus on your goals and priorities, whether you're at work or in a social setting. By dressing the part, you can channel your energy and attention towards achieving your objectives. A suit can make you feel more comfortable Contrary to popular belief, wearing a suit doesn't have to be uncomfortable. When you invest in a well-fitted suit made from high-quality materials, you'll feel comfortable and confident all day long. A suit can help you feel more comfortable in your own skin, which can boost your overall confidence levels. In conclusion, wearing a suit can have a significant impact on your confidence levels. A suit can make you look and feel more put together, sophisticated, and professional. By projecting a powerful and confident image, you can gain respect from others, improve your posture, and even boost your focus and comfort levels. So the next time you're feeling a little unsure of yourself, try putting on a suit and see how it can transform your mindset and attitude.
Where to Wear a Suit

Where to Wear a Suit

03 May, 2023
Suits are a classic and versatile wardrobe staple that can be worn in a variety of settings, but there are definitely some places where they are more appropriate than others. In this article, we’ll discuss the appropriate places to wear a suit, from formal to casual settings. Formal Settings Formal settings include events such as weddings, funerals, and black-tie galas. In these settings, it is customary and expected for men to wear a suit. A classic black, navy or charcoal suit with a white dress shirt and a tie is a safe and appropriate choice. Business Settings Business settings include meetings, job interviews, and presentations. In these settings, it is generally expected for men to wear a suit. A well-fitted suit in a neutral color such as navy, grey, or black, paired with a crisp white dress shirt and conservative tie is the standard dress code. It’s always better to err on the side of formality in a business setting, as it shows respect for the occasion and the people you are meeting with. Semi-Formal Settings Semi-formal settings include events such as cocktail parties, fancy dinners, and award ceremonies. A suit is still appropriate in these settings, but you have a bit more flexibility to show your personal style. A lighter colored suit or one with a pattern such as pinstripes or checks can work well, paired with a dress shirt in a complementary color and a tie that shows off your personality. Casual Settings Casual settings include events such as a night out with friends, a casual date, or a weekend brunch. In these settings, a suit may not be necessary, but it’s still possible to wear one if you want to make a statement or show off your personal style. In these more casual settings, you can get away with a more relaxed fit and lighter fabrics such as linen or cotton. In conclusion, the appropriate places to wear a suit include formal events such as weddings and funerals, business settings such as meetings and job interviews, semi-formal events such as cocktail parties and fancy dinners, and even some casual settings such as a night out with friends or a casual date. It’s important to choose the right suit for the occasion and to make sure it fits well and shows off your personal style.
The Benefits of a Bespoke Suit

The Benefits of a Bespoke Suit

03 May, 2023
When it comes to men's suiting, there are two options: off-the-rack or bespoke. Off-the-rack clothing is pre-made, mass-produced garments that are made in standard sizes and sold in stores. Bespoke clothing, on the other hand, is custom-made, tailored to the individual's measurements, and designed to fit their unique body shape. Although off-the-rack clothing may be convenient and cost-effective, bespoke suits offer a range of benefits that make them worth the investment. Firstly, bespoke suits offer superior fit and comfort compared to off-the-rack clothing. Each bespoke suit is designed and cut to the customer's individual measurements and body shape, ensuring a perfect fit that is both comfortable and flattering. Off-the-rack suits are made to fit a range of standard sizes, meaning that they may not fit perfectly and may require alterations to achieve a comfortable fit. Secondly, bespoke suits offer unparalleled style and quality. When choosing a bespoke suit, customers have the opportunity to select the fabric, style, and details of their suit, creating a unique garment that reflects their personal style and taste. In contrast, off-the-rack suits are typically made with lower-quality materials and may not offer as much variety in terms of style and design. Another advantage of bespoke suits is the attention to detail that goes into their creation. Each bespoke suit is handmade by skilled tailors who take pride in their work and ensure that every detail is perfect. From the choice of fabric to the finishing touches, bespoke suits are crafted with care and precision to ensure that they meet the highest standards of quality. Finally, bespoke suits offer a sense of exclusivity and luxury that cannot be found with off-the-rack clothing. Bespoke suits are made to order, meaning that each one is unique and tailored specifically to the customer. This creates a sense of exclusivity and luxury that cannot be found with off-the-rack clothing, which is mass-produced and sold in stores to anyone who is willing to buy it. In summation, while off-the-rack clothing may be a convenient and cost-effective option for some men, bespoke suits offer a range of benefits that make them worth the investment. From superior fit and comfort to unparalleled style and quality, bespoke suits are a luxury item that can enhance any man's wardrobe and provide a sense of exclusivity and individuality.
A Guide to Mens Suit Styles

A Guide to Mens Suit Styles

03 May, 2023
Men's suits have been a fashion staple for decades, and over time, different styles have emerged to suit different occasions and personal preferences. We will look at several of the most popular men’s suit styles that you should know about and what the differences are. First on our list is the Classic Suit. This is the most traditional and timeless suit style. It features a single-breasted jacket with two or three buttons and matching trousers. It may be either a two or three piece with a matching vest. The classic suit is versatile and suitable for both formal and casual occasions depending on its color. As a general rule, darker colors are more formal while lighter is more casual. This applies to most suits regardless of style. Next up to consider is the double-breasted suit. This style features a jacket with overlapping front flaps and two vertical rows of buttons. Double-breasted suits were popular in the 1930s and 1940s and have made a comeback in recent years. They are a great option for formal events. Another suit style to consider is a slim fit suit. The slim fit suit is a modern suit style that is tailored to fit close to the body. It features a shorter jacket length and narrower lapels. The slim fit suit is a popular choice for younger men and for those who prefer a more fitted look. The Italian suit, similar to the slim fit, is known for its sleek, slim silhouette, but is tailored with a focus on the shoulders and chest. Italian suits are typically made from high-quality fabrics and are a popular choice for men who want to make a statement. Now, looking to the casual suit; a relaxed and informal suit style that is perfect for less formal occasions. It typically features a single-breasted jacket with patch pockets and a more relaxed fit than a traditional suit. The casual suit will generally be lighter or less conservative in terms of color and may utilize fabrics such as linen or even cotton. Finally, The Tuxedo. The tuxedo is the ultimate formal suit for men. It features a black or midnight blue jacket with satin lapels, matching trousers, and a bow tie. Tuxedos are typically worn to black-tie events such as weddings and galas. In conclusion, there are many different men's suit styles to choose from, and each style has its own unique features and benefits. When choosing a suit, it's important to consider the occasion, your personal style, and the fit of the suit. A well-fitted suit can make a man feel confident and stylish, no matter the occasion.
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